We
travelled from Newcastle to Hull, ferry to Zee-bugger
and on to Millau to cross the spectacular bridge.
Trying to avoid motorways where possible on the way
there, but 5 blokes on bikes equates to hard work
at times - Not that touring with 5 lads is bad, it's
just we're notoriously unorganised. In fact, I remember
getting off the ferry in Zee-bugger and actually wondering
where we were going..... Sigh. Avoid the messiness
and make sure all your riders have a clue.
On Friday 1st June 2007 for the big trip to Millau
and then on to Cannes and the Napoleon Route to Grenoble.
What can go wrong ?
Take it from me, NEVER rely on the ferry providing
good ropes bring your own ratchet straps. Arriving
in Zeebrugger, armed with a hangover we suddenly
realise we don't know where we're going..... Arse.
We must meet Steve who has crossed the via Chunnel,
off to Calais then. By 2pm we give up waiting for
him and aim for Rouen. Eventually, when Steve gets
his mobile enabled for Europe (oh, the shame) Steve
has made it to Tours. We're 175 miles north, hey-ho.
Unpacked, we jump on a bus as ask the driver to stop
at the nearest restaurant. Food, drink, Bingo.
Day 2 we meet up with Steve close to Chartres, Steve
‘eager beaver’ only rides at one speed
- max. Within a few hours it’s becoming obvious
that Steve is up for 500 miles day and us Northerners
are making more like 5..... We make about 140 miles
south of Orleans, (Salbris). Accommodation is scarce,
but we find a hotel sign on the side of the road “La
Sauldraie”. A dropped VFR, food, doses of wine
and Cognac in the evening sun later and it's happy
days. Next day we wake to a 500 Euro bill.....ah,
pap.
We should be in Millau now on day 3 but so many silly
delays and getting split up ins't helping. We stick
to the more scenic ‘N’ roads we head South
not making great progress, the roads are good and
some great corners but we’re cursed with traffic
and slowing down for the smaller towns. To up-the-pace
we have a stint on the motorway past Clermont Ferrand
to Issoire, not quite as bad as we thought and not
a toll in sight, by the end of the riding day we’re
looking for accommodation at around 5pm.
The clouds look dodgy the next day, and with Millau
now only about 100 miles away we’ve got to lamp-it
to get there for early afternoon to make the most
of it. By now, we know that the Napoleon Route is
not going to be possible as although it’s achievable
mileage, the roads and traffic around Cannes and then
the actual route will be slow going and take too long
- we run the risk of just rushing these roads at silly-speeds
and missing the point of the trip - ‘tis the
Motoeuro way. After the supermarket visit we’re
back on the motorway so we can get to Millau at a
reasonable time. So far so good until the Sat Nav
takes us off piste for petrol, no sign of Steve in
our mirrors so we fear the worst - he’s lying
under his bike at the last roundabout..... We check
back, no sign. Steve has hit light-speed once more.....
We stop for a smoke break and pulling off the motorway
for lunch we find him re-fueling, then we’re
all back on the road to Millau only 20 miles away.
Another 15 miles later and as we ride to Millau we
can see the bridge in the distance, even from 5 miles
away it looks amazing. Before you know it we’re
paying our 3.50 euros each to cross, and pull-in at
a lay-by to set up the video cameras. It’s 1/4
of a mile high so you’d expect the views to
be stunning, but the bridge has high sides to stop
the crosswinds so views are restricted but the actual
construction is pretty impressive, those towering
steel cables and support beams are a marvel of engineering.
It’s kind of over before it started (same old,
same old eh lads ?) but we are all happy we made this
destination. The road into Millau town is great, really
twisty with magic views as you descend, we find a
cafe and park up for Expresso and Coke, the rather
nice owner offers to phone a local hotel. Right then,
parked up, jeans on it’s time for beer ! Millau
is an excellent town, it’s larger than most
but with lots of bars and restaurants this is the
way to see France. Mark my words, get a hotel early
and make sure you eat and beer-up ASAP - you’re
screwed after 11pm.
Leaving Millau we fuel up on
the Motorway but we’re leaving it in favour
of N roads to Le Puy-en-Velay. Unable to control himself,
Steve hits light-speed again and that's the last we
see of him. We get a text to say he’s on route
to Le Puy and will meet us there. The rain is heavy
now, much worse than before with as much grip as a
wet fish in olive oil, I am in favour of staying over
in a hotel opposite the cafe we stop at to dry out.
All I can see are my crappy fabric panniers with no
covers getting lashed on outside. But with so many
miles to go we must press-on. Mark’s Tom Tom
takes us on some very odd roads through the hills
but as the rain fairs up these turn out to be the
best roads yet on Motoeuro 2007. We wind our way through
the hills and past viaducts, vineyards, rivers and
the most spectacular scenery, we’re dry now
and the sun is out, you couldn't wipe the smile of
our faces if you tried.
We enter Le Puy, a very large town with manic traffic
on our arrival - rush hour of course. Takes us an
hour to find the Hotel where Steve is waiting but
even then we cock-it up as he is at an Ibis we go
to the Etap. Luckily they are only 500 yards apart.
However, an hour later, no Steve. We get a message
that goes something like “Nothing personal but
I cant do the group riding thing, off back home, take
care - Steve”. Morning arrives with another
delightful breakfast - bread, sigh.... But now down
to 4 riders we’re off to towards Lyon and then
Dijon. We must put in about 200+ miles today if we’ve
a chance of getting back in time. Somewhere near 260
miles we pull in at Parcey (just shy of Dijon on the
A39) when the Parcey Hotel stands right by the
river - perfik ! The owner invites us to put our bikes
in his garage overnight. We hit the Leffe Beer and
in no time the team are talking bollox and laughing
at anything.
We aim for Luxembourg as it would be a crime to miss
out on cheap smokes. We head for the motorways and
take the toll costs on the chin. 70+ miles and we’re
only a few miles from the border and the rain came
- absolutely terrible, roads were flooding as we rode
but no choice. Stopping in Luxembourg at a Shell garage
we notice they have a convenient shop the size of
Tesco at the back selling cheap smokes. Gerr'in !
We’re off again riding with what has to be the
most aggressive drivers we’ve encountered. Manic
speeds and viscous road manners, they take no prisoners.
Refueled and re-coffeed we press on knackered as the
concentration needed to survive this mad place is
intense. A local points us in the direction of a cheap
hotel, but within two turns we’d lost it, the
rain and wet roads aren’t helping - we need
rest and beer. Again, Sat Nav to the rescue as we
found a fantastic old hunting lodge on the edge of
a forest, two rooms please and we’ll take our
apéritifs in the wine cellar. Pewter jugs of
cold beer were served and after Marky had deciphered
the menu we took the time to reflect on a mad, mad
day of riding. Sun, rain, thunder, lightning, humidity
- we’ve had it all today. Checking my phone
Steve made it back by 10am the same morning - 700+
miles in 16 hours, doesn’t sound like great
fun - but light-speed-Steve is back in Blighty. Our
evening meal was the best so far and believe me we’re
had some fantastic food. We have found heaven and
it’s called Hotel Barriere in Belgium of all
Places.
It's
really misty the next day but at least it's
not raining, we ride the motorway to Brugge.
Again mad drivers get up your nose but we arrive
for 3pm, we’ve got an hour to find emergency
gifts then off to the ferry. Herded on first
before the cars, again it’s a trauma as
we secure our bikes. Last evening on the beer
so we get well lashed. Jock and Marky
cant resist the 3 foot long Toblerone bars in
the gift shop and it’s time to make total
fools of ourselves clapping and cheering like
mad-men at the live band. The remaining 150
miles back to Tyneside was a bit dull but got
back for a quick stop and time to go our separate
ways. It’s been a blast, happy days! up
for next year then lads ? (most apparently not).
Finally....If you’re off on a trip, take
note of our experiences, especially as some
riders may want a balls out thrash of Europe,
others prefer to soak it up. Riding with a group
can be difficult but remember it’s your
holiday so make sure you have a good time. Like
Steve you’ll either love or loathe group
riding as it’s never really a fast-affair,
often you’ll get split up a traffic lights,
junctions and roundabouts too. In Steve’s
case group riding is not his forte even though
we still managed 1,900 miles. As you have probably
worked out, we plan very little. If you do then
your are constantly held ransom to pre-booked
hotels and itineraries, (having
said that) if you like somewhere then stop,
if you’re making good time then expand
your trip. Oh, and don’t drink too much,
you’ll be knackered the next day.......
If only we could live by our own rules.
Au revoir mes amis
Motoeuro
2007 - Dim the lights, Pearl and Dean eat
your heart out. Motoeuro 2007 presented
to you in glorious out-of-focus-o-vision.
